Today was the day. Today was the day we got to see the Guilin
mountains. Mountains that are so beautiful they adorn the Chinese 20
Yuan note.
This was one of the things I was looking forward to seeing since i’ve become addicted to feets of nature since our trip to Taiwan’s Taroko Gorge. Guilin did not disappoint.
We set off on our trip and arrived in a small port surrounded by pushy ,
scary Chinese woman. If Lee hadn’t have been there I’d have been rolled
into a ball screaming ‘stranger danger’. Scared enough to buy all their
oranges and flower garlands but luckily he helped me stand my ground.
We carefully boarded our bamboo boat and set off. We moved through the
mountains and mist almost becoming accustom to the view. It was awe
inspiring and definitely worth the trip. We were a little unlucky with
the weather but not even grey skies can detract from these views.
Our favourite part of the day was making our own names for each
mountains. I don’t think they would have been appreciated by the Chinese
though. ‘Sulky gorilla yawning’ mountain seems to lack the poetry that
the Chinese provide for these hills.
The trip ended and we drove the rest of the way to Yangshuo where we
instantly decided to stay for the night. This pretty little artsy town
is geared towards tourists but it feels very relaxed. Surrounded by the
mountains and filled with good cheap food made it the perfect stop
over. We stayed in the Green Forest Hostel’s Yangshuo branch, which was
even better than the Guilin branch. I wish time would have allowed us to
have spent a lot longer there but sadly two days was all we had time
for.
Later in the day we dragged ourselves from the delicious street venders
(spring rolls , i heart you) and headed on a river cruise to another
smaller local village. This time we were taken by a real bamboo boat
that was rowed for us instead of a motorised one like earlier in the
day. We also got to experience a special showing of the Yangshuo fisher
men. These men use birds to fish for them. It seems horribly cruel since
a string is tied to the birds neck so he can’t swallow. Once he catches
the fish the fisherman takes the food. At the end of the day the bird
is rewarded with fish. I still question whether this is fair or not. I’m
ashamed to say I didn’t even question going to see it when we bought
the day trip ticket. I had seen it on a BBC documentary and surely
nothing you see on the BBC can be bad?!? I did question the ethical
nature of it though.It’s hard to question such an ancient art that takes
years to master. There are only 5 men that still know how to fish like
this so I don’t think it will last forever and to be honest I don’t know
if this is sad or just. It’ll be sad for the local area when such an
ancient culture disappears but then again…those poor birdies.
Once we started sailing the river cruise was perfect ..well it would
have been perfect if we hadn’t have had a 18 year old idiot driving us.
This boy thought it was his personal mission to talk and yell at every
other boat on the river. The beauty and peace is a little ruined when
your driver is wolf whistling and spitting everywhere….but we still
managed to enjoy it.
I think everyone who goes to Guilin is already sure they will take the
trip down the river but a stay in Yangshuo and the additional cruise
(which cost us about 12 pound) is something we’d recommend. If you are
going to travel all that way, it makes sense to see as much of the place
as you can. And what a place it is.
A last word of warning would be that Yangshuo is a beautiful place
but as soono as it gets dark this place becomes a crazy nightclub town
so make sure your hostel is well away from the party street…and have a
good time.
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